The T-Cycle HP Velotechnik Idler Kit is a direct replacement for your stock idler. Just remove your idler bolt, take off that old idler, put on your brand new high quality T-Cycle 23 Tooth Power Idler and the small spacer (for alignment) and replace the idler bolt. Works with your Street Machine, Speed Machine, Grasshopper and Scorpion. See Additional Info if you have a Gekko.
1. What makes this idler better than the stock one?
Elite Power Side idlers have a solid metal core surrounded by a very light machined out AL frame and machined AL sideplates. Your chain is carried on a specially shaped 6AL4V Titanium cog, or optionally, a 7075 Aluminum cog, for maximum efficiency and long life. A heavy duty aluminum bearing carrier pressed inside the cog carries a pair of high quality bearings. It's tough, light, and really sharp looking. It's the ultimate idler for almost every power side idler application.
2. What's in the Kit?
This is a pretty simple kit. It includes the idler and a specially sized spacer to align the idler with the stock chainline.
3. I see it has bolts. Can I take it apart?
Yes, these idlers are designed to be disassembled if needed. They are held together with 3 stainless bolts. We don't recommend taking them apart unless they have many thousands of miles on them and you have reason to believe the bearings are finally worn out. They are precision made and there are some steps to the disassembly/reassembly that are important to follow carefully. Since the bearings are pressed into the core, you will need a bearing press if you ever need to remove them. With any kind of reasonable care, the bearings should last tens of thousands of miles, though, and it would be rare to replace them. With a press, even a simple one, it's easy to do.
4. If I ever wear out the cog, can I replace that?
Yes, we can replace the cog assembly if that's ever necessary. We haven't had to do that yet, but with so many idlers out there, we're sure it will happen some day.
5. What about efficiency and noise?
We make exclusively toothed idlers for power side applications because they are both quieter and more efficient that way. There are a host of technical reasons for this, but the biggest and most basic one is that chains are designed to be carried by the bushings. It is a nice, big flat area designed for forces to be applied to it. Chains are not meant to be carried on the edges of their sideplates. It just doesn't work as well. Since the core of the idler is all metal, from the chain bushings through to the bearings, there is no sponginess to soak up power. The chain sideplates aren't used to transmit power down into the idler, so there is no rubbing contact like there is on plain bedded idlers. Noise is a complicated issue, but we expect you'll find these idlers are quieter than other idlers. The cog is specially shaped to smoothly and repeatably mesh with the chain, and unless the chain is being pulled sideways quite a bit, there will be very little rubbing. We always recommend allowing your power side idler to float side to side with the chain as it shifts.
6. What bearings can you get with these idlers?
There are two options on this kit: titanium cog with 8mm Hybrid Ceramic bearings (ceramic balls, stainless steel races), or 7075 Aluminum cog with high quality ABEC rated steel bearings.
7. I notice the description doesn't mention the Gekko. What's up with that?
This idler fits and works great in the Gekko until it comes time to fold it. The fold on the Gekko twists the chain rather severely right as it goes through the idler. On the stock idler, the chain can rotate in the (extra wide) groove. Since our idlers carry the chain on a metal cog, the chain can't twist. It is entirely possible to use this idler on a Gekko, but we recommend removing or loosening the chainkeeper before you fold, and being very careful to guide the chain as it twists, so it doesn't grab on the cog or try to wedge between the idler, chainkeeper, or idler side plates.
- This idler is a drop in replacement for the HP Velotechnik idler (our HPVT idler kit includes the necessary spacer to get the idler lined up on your original chainline). It is a nice upgrade for all current (large idler) bike and trike models.
- On the Gekko, there are some restrictions. This idler fits and works great in the Gekko except for the fold. The fold on the Gekko twists the chain rather severely right as it goes through the idler. On the stock idler, the chain can rotate in the (extra wide) groove. Since our idlers carry the chain on a metal cog, the chain can't twist.
- It is entirely possible to use this idler on a Gekko, but we recommend removing or loosening the chainkeeper before you fold, and being very careful to guide the chain as it twists, so it doesn't grab on the cog or try to wedge between the idler, chainkeeper, or idler side plates.
- On a very few bikes, the seat mount is sometimes closer to the idler mount than others. If that is the case with you (and it is rare), we can replace the side plates and reduce the size of the idler 2mm.
- The cog is precision machined, but there is a break-in period while the cog and the chain get to know each other. After that, you can expect your idler to last many, many thousands of miles before needing service.
- This idler is designed for use with 8, 9, and 10 speed chains.
- In case of damage, all parts are individually replaceable. Contact us for details.
- We use stainless fasteners because we know you don't want things rusting.
- Since the larger cog in this idler shares the wear among more teeth, and because the cost of titanium is high, we offer this idler wth a 7075 Aluminum cog option. The titanium cog option is 6AL/4V titanium, for the ultimate in durability. In all cases the cog and frame are extensively machined out for lightness.
- Bearing Care: The bearings are shielded, not sealed. Shielded bearings have less rolling resistance because the seal, while super close, doesn't actually rub. True sealed bearings are rare, when people talk about "sealed bearings", they usually actually mean shielded. These are top quality shielded bearings and will last a long time. What kills bearings is solvent, dirt, and water intrusion. As long as you don't spray things on the bearing faces, you will be OK. Regular amounts of dust and dirt getting on the outsides of the bearings won't be a problem, as it's hard for it to get past the shields (the shields really do come *very* close to the bearings). When you clean them, what you want to do is gently wipe dirt off and away from bearings, rather than rub aggressively and push the dirt past the shields. There is no need to lube the bearings, the special grease that's in them is what they need.
- No maintenance should be required other than occasional cleaning with a paper towel or soft cloth. We recommend keeping solvents and soap and water away from the bearings, they don't need aggressive cleaning and solvents and soaps tend to go after the grease. It's water resistant, but solvents and soaps are harder to deal with.
- You will probably never need to disassemble your idler. Should you ever need to, a 2.5mm Allen wrench is all you will need.
- Our largest idler, the 23T is a upgrade replacement for any current HP Velotechnik bike or trike.
- While this idler fits and works great on the Gekko, the way the chain twists during the fold is not compatible with this idler. Extra steps are required to fold and unfold the Gekko without damaging the idler. There are no restrictions on any other models.
- We recommend the kit for HP Velotechnik, it includes a necessary spacer.
Original idler was worn so badly that the chain was getting caught in the holes.. I bought the titanium replacement with teeth on it. Was a little noisy at first but was fine after it wore in.
It was plug and play. Maybe a little heavier than the oem part but definitely quieter. Hard to say how much it increased my efficiency but it couldn't have hurt.